Which Tarp Size and Material Are Best for Survival Shelters

For survival shelters, the ideal tarp size is 10×10 feet (or 10×12 feet for extra coverage), which provides enough space for 1-2 people with gear and weather protection. The best material is 70D ripstop nylon with silicone or polyurethane coating, offering the optimal balance of durability, weight, and waterproofing for emergency situations. Budget-conscious preppers can start with heavy-duty polyethylene tarps, while ultralight enthusiasts may prefer Dyneema Composite Fabric, though it comes at a premium price.

Why Size Matters More Than You Think

Most people grab whatever tarp seems big enough to cover their body. That’s a mistake that could leave you cold, wet, and miserable when you need shelter most.

The right tarp size depends on more than just your height. You need room for your gear, adequate weather protection from wind-driven rain, and enough material to create multiple shelter configurations. A tarp that’s too small forces you into cramped positions with limited protection. One that’s too large becomes unwieldy in high winds and adds unnecessary weight to your pack.

Think of your tarp as a multipurpose tool rather than just overhead coverage. Beyond shelter, you might need it for water collection, ground cover, a stretcher, or even signaling. Each use demands sufficient material to work effectively.

The Sweet Spot: 10×10 to 10×12 Feet

For most people’s portable emergency bags, sizes ranging from 8×8 feet to 10×12 feet tend to be the sweet spot, because that’s enough material to create nice shelters for 1-2 people and their gear.

Here’s the breakdown by person count:

Solo Shelter: An 8×8 foot tarp works for one person in a pinch. When pitched in a Diamond Fly configuration, an 8×8 foot tarp provides a diagonal ridgeline of approximately 11.3 feet, which is enough for one person and some gear. However, many experienced outdoor enthusiasts find 8×8 too restrictive and prefer the 10×10 size even when camping alone.

Two People: A 10×10 tarp is recommended for two people, as the shelter gets shorter away from the ridgeline. The extra square footage gives both occupants breathing room and keeps everyone’s gear protected from the elements.

Small Groups: If you’re preparing a family emergency kit, consider a 10×12 or even 12×12 foot tarp. Just remember that each adult should ideally have their own shelter option rather than relying on one oversized tarp for the whole family.

Why not go bigger? Larger tarps become difficult to pitch in wind and take up valuable pack space. They also weigh more, which matters when you’re carrying everything on your back. The 10×10 to 10×12 range hits the balance between versatility and practicality.

Shape Considerations

Square tarps win for survival situations. Period.

A square tarp is the most versatile and probably the best choice for beginners. You can pitch a square tarp as an A-frame, diamond fly, lean-to, or dozens of other configurations. Rectangular tarps work too, offering similar flexibility with slightly different proportions.

Specialized shapes like tapered or curved designs exist for specific camping setups, particularly hammock use. These look sleek and save a few ounces, but they sacrifice the adaptability you need in unpredictable survival scenarios. When your life depends on shelter, versatility trumps specialized design.

Material Comparison: What Actually Matters

Walk into any hardware store and you’ll see cheap blue tarps made of polyethylene. Walk into an outdoor specialty shop and you’ll find high-tech fabrics that cost more per square foot than your carpet. Both have their place in survival preparation, but the differences matter more than you might think.

Polyethylene (Poly Tarps)

These are the ubiquitous blue tarps you see covering everything from firewood piles to leaky roofs. Polyethylene tarpaulins are made from woven polyethylene strips coated with a layer of low-density polyethylene and are popular for their cost-effectiveness.

Advantages:

• Extremely affordable (often under $20 for a 10×10)
• Completely waterproof
• Available everywhere
• Many are UV-treated and resistant to mold, mildew, and rot

Disadvantages:

• Less durable compared to other materials and more prone to punctures and tears, particularly when exposed to sharp objects or heavy wear
• Heavy and bulky for their coverage area
• Noisy when wind hits them
• Often only good for single-use in emergency situations

Poly tarps make excellent additions to vehicle emergency kits or home preparedness supplies where weight doesn’t matter. They’re also perfect practice tarps—buy a cheap one, learn different shelter configurations, figure out what you like, then invest in better gear.

Nylon (Especially Ripstop)

Nylon revolutionized outdoor gear when it hit the market, and it remains one of the best tarp materials for survival situations.

Nylon has a very strong strength-to-weight ratio and its elasticity is also a benefit for stretching in tarps, making it extremely durable. The ripstop variety includes reinforcement threads woven in a crosshatch pattern, preventing small tears from spreading into shelter-destroying rips.

Most quality survival tarps use 70D (70 denier) ripstop nylon. Fabric with a higher denier will be thicker, stronger and more durable than the same fabric with a lower denier. The 70D weight offers serious durability without excessive bulk.

Key features of nylon tarps:

• Lightweight (a 10×10 foot 70D nylon tarp typically weighs 2-3 pounds)
• Excellent tear and abrasion resistance
• Packs down small
• Can handle repeated folding and stuffing without deteriorating

Raw nylon isn’t waterproof, so manufacturers apply coatings. Silicone coating (creating “silnylon”) penetrates the fabric for excellent waterproofing and adds durability. Polyurethane (PU) coating sits on the fabric surface and provides reliable water resistance with the bonus of better UV protection.

Nylon is generally the best tarp fabric, but polyester can also work because it’s strong in some places where nylon is weak, particularly UV and stretch resistance.

Canvas

Canvas tarps bring old-school durability to the table. Canvas tarps are made from a durable cotton or cotton-polyester blend woven tightly into a large piece of fabric, providing a strong and durable surface.

What makes canvas special:

• Naturally equipped to withstand wear and tear over time without sustaining significant damage, and when properly cared for, can last many years
• Breathable, reducing condensation issues
• Can withstand high temperatures
• Repairable with basic sewing skills

The downsides:

• Heavy—sometimes prohibitively so for mobile kits
• Canvas materials have inherent water-resistant properties, but intensity can vary based on weave and treatment, with untreated canvas potentially absorbing some water
• Requires maintenance and proper storage to prevent mold
• More expensive than poly tarps

Canvas works brilliantly for semi-permanent camps or vehicle-based survival situations. For bug-out bags or mobile preparedness, the weight usually disqualifies it.

Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF/Cuben Fiber)

This is the space-age material that makes ultralight enthusiasts weak in the knees. Dyneema Composite Fabric is a patented, high-end laminate fabric constructed from non-woven composites utilizing Dyneema fibers, offering an unmatched strength to weight ratio—15 times stronger than steel.

A 10×10 foot DCF tarp can weigh as little as 7-8 ounces. That’s lighter than most water bottles.

The impressive specs:

• Inherently waterproof (no coating needed)
• Doesn’t absorb water
• Zero stretch
• Extremely strong for its weight
• Waterproof, resists fading from UV light, and stays strong even when exposed to chemicals

The reality check:

• Expensive—often $200-400 for a 10×10 tarp
• Vulnerable to puncture damage, particularly when under tension
• Doesn’t stuff well (needs to be folded)
• Lower heat resistance than other materials

DCF tarps shine for weight-conscious backpackers and those building ultralight survival kits. For general preparedness, especially if budget matters, the cost-to-benefit ratio rarely makes sense.

Vinyl/PVC

Vinyl tarps are made from vinyl coated polyester (PVC) material, similar to a rubberized sheet, making them highly durable, strong, and resistant to water, mildew, and UV rays.

These are the heavy-duty tarps used in construction and industrial settings. They’re tough as nails but way too heavy for mobile survival kits. Vinyl tarps are often heavier than canvas and poly tarps due to their thickness and material weight.

Use vinyl tarps for stationary applications—covering equipment caches, creating semi-permanent shelters at bug-out locations, or protecting stored supplies. Don’t put one in your go-bag unless you enjoy unnecessary suffering.

Waterproofing Ratings Explained

You’ll see waterproof ratings listed in millimeters (mm), measuring hydrostatic head (HH). This number represents how tall a column of water the fabric can withstand before leaking through.

Here’s what the numbers mean in practice:

• 1,500mm: Minimum acceptable for survival tarps; handles light to moderate rain
• 3,000mm: Good waterproofing for most conditions
• 5,000mm+: Excellent protection in heavy, sustained rainfall
• 10,000mm+: Overkill for most uses, but gives peace of mind

Generally, you will need a hydrostatic head of at least 1,500 for a survival tarp. Quality nylon survival tarps often rate between 3,000-5,000mm, while premium options push 10,000-20,000mm.

Remember that waterproof ratings only tell part of the story. Seam construction matters just as much. Look for tarps with sealed or taped seams—untreated stitching creates leak points no matter how waterproof the fabric.

Denier and Durability

The denier number you see (30D, 70D, 210D, etc.) measures thread thickness. The denier measures the thickness of the fibers of a tarp—the larger the denier, the thicker the strands, and a higher denier generally means a more robust but heavier tarp.

For survival applications, here’s the practical guide:

20-30D: Ultralight territory. Tarp fabrics in the 20 denier range are amazing for ultralight hiking but aren’t durable enough for the full range of emergency uses. Too fragile for rough handling or multipurpose use.

40D: Light but functional. Works for experienced users who treat gear carefully.

70D: The sweet spot for survival. A minimum of 30D fabric weight is recommended, but 70D offers superior durability without excessive weight. This thickness handles abuse while keeping pack weight reasonable.

150D+: Heavy-duty. Great for stationary setups or extreme conditions, but usually too heavy for mobile kits.

Think about your likely use scenarios. Occasional weekend camping? 40D works fine. Serious survival preparation where the tarp might save your life? Go 70D minimum.

Essential Features to Look For

Beyond size and material, certain features separate mediocre tarps from legitimate survival gear.

Reinforced Attachment Points

Cheap tarps have grommets stamped into the material at corners. One good wind gust and they’re ripping out. Quality survival tarps feature reinforced webbing or extra fabric layers at every attachment point.

Look for tarps with anchor points that have reinforced webbing at stress points, which survived multiple days of testing. These reinforcements distribute tension across a larger area, preventing catastrophic failure.

The number of attachment points matters too. A basic tarp might have 8-10 grommets around the perimeter. Better options include 15-20 tie-out points, including some along the center ridgeline. More attachment points mean more configuration options and better storm-worthiness.

Stuff Sack Included

This seems minor until you’re trying to pack a wet, muddy tarp at 3 AM in freezing rain. A dedicated stuff sack keeps the tarp contained and prevents it from contaminating other gear. Some manufacturers sew the stuff sack directly to the tarp so you can’t lose it.

Guy Lines and Stakes

Some tarps include cordage and stakes. Others make you supply your own. While you should always carry extra cordage regardless, included guy lines save initial setup hassle. Just know that factory-included lines often aren’t the highest quality—many experienced users replace them immediately.

Color Considerations

Military green or earth tones help you blend into surroundings. Bright colors make you easier to spot for rescue. Choose based on your primary concern: staying hidden or being found.

Practical Setup Configurations

Having the right tarp means nothing if you can’t deploy it effectively. Here are the three most important shelter designs every prepper should know.

A-Frame

The A-frame takes more time and effort than the diamond configuration but provides more consistent headroom, typically requiring two trees 10 to 15 feet apart with sufficiently open ground between them.

Run a ridgeline between two trees or supports at about waist height. Drape your tarp over the line, centering it lengthwise. Stake the four corners out and tension the ridgeline. This creates a classic tent shape with good weather protection and livable space.

The A-frame works in most terrain and weather. It sheds rain efficiently and gives you room to sit up. The main limitation is needing two anchor points at the right distance apart.

Diamond Fly

The diamond is one of the simplest and fastest shelters you can create, requiring only a reasonably strong tree with approximately 8 feet of open ground around it.

Face the tree with wind at your back. Attach one corner of the tarp to the tree at chest to head height. Pull the opposite corner tight and stake it to the ground. Stake out the two side corners to create a diamond shape.

This shelter goes up fast—crucial in emergency situations. It provides good protection from wind and rain coming from one direction. The downside is limited space and weather protection from other angles.

Lean-To

The simplest shelter of all. Run a ridgeline between two trees about 5-6 feet high. Drape the tarp over it so one edge reaches the ground. Stake that edge down. Angle the other edge up and stake it out for entry.

Lean-tos sacrifice protection for simplicity and ventilation. They work well in fair weather or when you need shelter from sun rather than driving rain. In serious weather, you’ll want something more enclosed.

Budget Recommendations for Different Scenarios

Your tarp selection should match both your needs and your wallet. Here’s how to approach it at different price points.

Entry Level ($20-40)

Start with a quality heavy-duty polyethylene tarp. Blue tarps are dirt cheap and you can find them at any hardware store or big box store. Get a 10×12 foot version for vehicle emergency kits or home preparedness.

At this price point, also grab a cheaper 8×8 or 10×10 to practice with. Learn different pitches, figure out what features matter to you, experiment with cordage and stakes. When you inevitably put a hole in it or lose it, you’re out twenty bucks instead of two hundred.

Mid-Range ($60-120)

This is where serious survival tarps live. Look for 70D ripstop nylon with silicone or PU coating. Tarps in this range, such as the Aqua Quest Safari at 1.2 pounds for a 10×10, offer tough-as-nails construction without overloading your pack, featuring 70D silnylon material with polyurethane coating for extra water repellency and UV protection.

Features to expect at this price: sealed seams, reinforced attachment points, decent stuff sack, warranty from the manufacturer. These tarps will last years with proper care and handle whatever weather you throw at them.

This is the sweet spot for most preppers. You get legitimate survival gear without the premium pricing of ultralight materials.

Premium ($150-400)

Now we’re talking Dyneema Composite Fabric and other exotic materials. These tarps prioritize weight savings above all else.

Who should buy premium tarps? Serious ultralight backpackers, gram-counting thru-hikers, and people building weight-critical survival kits for specific scenarios (like bail-out bags for pilots or lightweight mountain rescue gear).

For most preparedness situations, the extra cost doesn’t translate to enough additional capability to justify the price jump. Spend the difference on other gear gaps instead.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced outdoors people make these errors when selecting or using survival tarps.

Mistake #1: Buying only one tarp

You don’t want to buy one extra large tarp for your whole family without other backup options—each adult in your household should carry their own, configured to support one person. Redundancy matters in survival situations. Multiple smaller tarps give you more options than one huge one.

Mistake #2: Never practicing setups

Your tarp won’t magically erect itself during an emergency. Practice different configurations before you need them for real. Try pitching your shelter in wind, in rain, at night. Learn what works in different conditions.

Mistake #3: Ignoring ground protection

Everyone focuses on overhead coverage and forgets about ground moisture. Cold, wet ground will sap your body heat faster than rain from above. In many situations, you need ground protection as much as overhead shelter. This might mean carrying two tarps—one for overhead, one for ground—or choosing a size large enough to wrap up for ground coverage.

Mistake #4: Forgetting complementary gear

The best tarp in the world won’t save you if you don’t have cordage, stakes, and knowledge to deploy it. Your tarp kit should include:

• 50-100 feet of quality cordage
• 8-12 tent stakes
• Extra guyline tensioners
• Repair tape or patches
• Backup attachment options

Mistake #5: Storing tarps wet

Pack your tarp away wet after a trip and you’ll open it next time to find mold and mildew turning your investment into garbage. Always dry tarps completely before storage. If you absolutely must pack wet, unpack and dry everything within 24 hours.

Special Use Cases

Sometimes standard advice doesn’t apply. Here are recommendations for specific situations.

Hot Climate/Desert Survival

Sun protection matters more than rain coverage. Consider lighter colors that reflect heat rather than dark earth tones. Larger sizes (12×12 or bigger) work better because you need serious shade area. Breathable canvas or poly-cotton blends can provide better comfort than fully waterproof nylon in these conditions.

Cold Weather/Snow

Look for tarps with reflective coatings to bounce body heat back. You’ll likely need supplementary insulation and ground padding, but a good tarp keeps wind and snow off. In deep winter, smaller tarps that you can pitch low and tight work better than large ones—they’re easier to heat with your body and less likely to collapse under snow load.

Coastal/Marine Environments

Salt water and constant humidity will destroy cheap tarps fast. Invest in quality marine-grade materials with excellent UV protection. Vinyl or PVC tarps handle saltwater exposure better than nylon if weight isn’t your primary concern. Rinse tarps with fresh water after exposure to salt spray.

Urban Survival

City survival situations might involve broken windows, debris, or contaminated areas. Heavy-duty poly or vinyl tarps work better than lightweight nylon for these applications. You might need to tape over broken windows, create barriers against dust or smoke, or construct temporary walls. Durability trumps weight savings in urban scenarios.

Long-Term Durability and Maintenance

A survival tarp should last years or even decades with proper care. Here’s how to maximize lifespan.

Regular Inspection: Before and after each use, check for small holes, worn spots, or damaged attachment points. Fix problems immediately—small holes become big rips.

Proper Cleaning: Dirt and grit act like sandpaper against fabric. Clean tarps with mild soap and water. Avoid harsh detergents or pressure washers that can damage coatings.

UV Protection: Sunlight slowly degrades all tarp materials. Don’t leave tarps deployed longer than necessary. When storing, keep them out of direct sun.

Seam Resealing: Seam sealer wears off over time. Reapply every few years or whenever you notice leaks at seams.

Smart Storage: Store tarps loosely rolled or hung, not tightly compressed for months. This prevents permanent creases and coating damage.

Making the Final Decision

You’ve got the information. Now comes the hard part: actually choosing.

For most people preparing for emergencies, here’s the straightforward recommendation: Get a 10×10 foot tarp made from 70D ripstop nylon with PU or silicone coating. This combination delivers reliable performance across the widest range of conditions without breaking the bank or loading your pack with excessive weight.

Add a cheap poly tarp to your vehicle and home supplies as backup. These cover situations where weight doesn’t matter and you need something you’re not worried about destroying.

If you’re building an ultralight kit and money isn’t tight, consider a Dyneema tarp as your primary shelter. Just understand its limitations and carry repair tape.

The perfect tarp doesn’t exist. Every material involves tradeoffs between weight, durability, cost, and performance. Choose based on your most likely scenarios, not the most extreme possibilities. A tarp you’ll actually carry beats a better one you leave at home because it’s too heavy.

Testing Before You Need It

Before your tarp matters for survival, test it thoroughly. Set it up in your backyard. Sleep under it overnight. Try different configurations. Use it in rain. Practice in wind. Figure out the quirks and limitations.

This practice serves two purposes. First, you’ll learn what works and what doesn’t while mistakes are inconvenient rather than dangerous. Second, you might discover that your choice doesn’t actually meet your needs, giving you time to adjust before it matters.

The best survival gear is gear you’ve tested and trust. Your tarp should be so familiar that you can pitch it in the dark, in the rain, half-frozen and exhausted. That confidence comes only from practice.

The Bottom Line

Size matters: 10×10 to 10×12 feet works for most people in most situations. Material matters: 70D nylon hits the sweet spot of durability, weight, and cost. Everything else—color, attachment point count, included accessories—is secondary to getting those two factors right.

Don’t overthink it. A good tarp in your pack beats a perfect tarp that doesn’t exist. Choose something reasonable, learn to use it well, and move on to other preparedness priorities.

When the storm hits and you need shelter, you won’t care whether you saved six ounces with exotic fabric or whether your tarp is the optimal shade of olive drab. You’ll care that you have solid material overhead keeping the weather off while you wait out whatever crisis put you there.

Get a good tarp. Learn to use it. Maintain it properly. Replace it when it wears out. That’s the whole story.