How do you create a natural sunscreen? The Complete Guide to Making Safe, Effective DIY Sun Protection
Creating natural sunscreen requires melting carrier oils and butters in a double boiler, then mixing in non-nano zinc oxide as the primary UV-blocking ingredient, along with optional natural oils that offer mild sun protection. The basic formula combines zinc oxide powder (20-25% of the total weight for SPF 30-50 protection) with moisturizing bases like coconut oil, shea butter, and beeswax.
The star ingredient is non-nano zinc oxide, which physically blocks harmful UV rays rather than absorbing them like chemical sunscreens. Unlike store-bought versions containing chemicals that penetrate your skin, this DIY approach relies on a physical mineral barrier that stays on the skin’s surface.
However, here’s the reality check: homemade sunscreens won’t match commercial products in exact SPF ratings or water resistance. You’ll need to reapply more frequently and use common sense about sun exposure. But for many people concerned about what goes on their skin, this trade-off is worthwhile.
Why People Are Ditching Commercial Sunscreens
The sunscreen industry has been under fire lately, and for good reason.
Recent FDA studies show that six common chemical sunscreen ingredients—oxybenzone, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, avobenzone and octinoxate—can be absorbed through the skin at levels above 0.5 nanograms per milliliter, which is the FDA’s maximum concentration without potential safety concerns.
More troubling? These ingredients could be detected on the skin and in the blood weeks after they were last used, and have been found in breast milk, urine and blood plasma samples. That’s not exactly comforting when you’re slathering it on your kids before a day at the beach.
A CDC study revealed that 97% of Americans are contaminated with oxybenzone, a widely-used sunscreen ingredient linked to allergies, hormone disruption, and cell damage. The kicker? This chemical is also a penetration enhancer, meaning it helps other chemicals get into your skin more easily.
Beyond human health, there’s the environmental angle. Up to 6,000 tons of sunscreen—more than the weight of 50 blue whales—wash through U.S. reef areas every year. These chemicals have been shown to contribute to coral reef bleaching and harm marine ecosystems.
The Science Behind Natural Sun Protection
Let’s get into how sunscreen actually works, because understanding this will help you make a better product.
Physical vs. Chemical Sunscreens
There are two fundamentally different approaches to sun protection:
Chemical sunscreens absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat. They contain ingredients like oxybenzone and avobenzone that sink into your skin to do their job. The problem? That absorption comes with the health concerns we just talked about.
Physical (mineral) sunscreens work differently. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide provide a physical barrier that blocks UV radiation through reflection and scattering, similar to how clothing protects you. They sit on top of your skin rather than penetrating it.
Why Zinc Oxide Is Your Best Friend
Zinc oxide is well known for protecting against a wide spectrum of UV, covering both UVA (320-400 nm) and UVB (280-320 nm) wavelengths. This broad-spectrum protection matters because UVB causes sunburn and direct DNA damage, while UVA causes photoaging and generates reactive oxygen species that lead to indirect DNA damage.
Zinc oxide protects against both UVA and UVB rays, making it one of the few ingredients approved for true broad-spectrum protection. Mineral sunscreens like zinc oxide are generally well-tolerated with minimal adverse effects and are ideal for sensitive and baby skin since they don’t penetrate as far into the skin.
The percentage matters tremendously. Sunscreens with more than 20% zinc oxide concentration offer the highest defense against UVA and UVB rays, with ideal zinc oxide percentages between 20% and 32% to achieve SPF in the 30 to 50 range.
Here’s a rough guide for zinc oxide percentages:
- 5% zinc oxide = approximately SPF 8
- 10% zinc oxide = approximately SPF 16
- 20% zinc oxide = approximately SPF 32
- 25-30% zinc oxide = approximately SPF 40-50
The Supporting Cast: Natural Oils and Butters
While zinc oxide does the heavy lifting, other natural ingredients provide additional benefits:
Coconut Oil: Contains natural moisturizing properties and offers a mild SPF of 4-6. It’s easily absorbed and helps spread the sunscreen evenly.
Shea Butter: Rich in vitamins A and E, which enhance skin cell regeneration. Also provides SPF 4-8 and excellent moisturizing properties.
Carrot Seed Oil: Often cited as having SPF 35-40, though these claims come from limited research. It’s packed with antioxidants that protect against UV damage.
Red Raspberry Seed Oil: Contains high levels of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids plus natural vitamin E. Commonly cited as having SPF 28-50, though like carrot seed oil, these exact figures aren’t definitively proven in clinical settings.
Important caveat: While many DIY blogs cite specific SPF numbers for these oils, the scientific evidence behind these claims is limited. These oils do provide some UV protection and skin-nourishing benefits, but you should rely primarily on zinc oxide for actual sun protection.
Essential Ingredients: What You Actually Need
Let’s cut through the complexity and focus on what works. Here’s your shopping list:
Must-Have Ingredients
Non-Nano Zinc Oxide Powder (cosmetic grade) This is non-negotiable. The “non-nano” part is crucial—these particles are large enough (over 100 nanometers) to sit on top of your skin rather than being absorbed into it. You need cosmetic-grade zinc oxide, not the stuff sold for industrial use. Look for products that are independently lab-tested to be lead-free.
Carrier Oils/Butters Choose at least one:
- Coconut oil (solid at room temperature, melts easily)
- Shea butter (creamy, excellent for skin)
- Cocoa butter (firmer texture, chocolate scent)
Beeswax Pellets This gives your sunscreen structure and makes it more water-resistant. Candelilla wax works as a vegan alternative.
Optional But Beneficial Ingredients
Red Raspberry Seed Oil Adds extra antioxidants and potential UV protection. Use 1-2 teaspoons per batch.
Carrot Seed Oil Provides antioxidants and a lovely orange hue that can help tint your sunscreen. Use 20-30 drops per batch.
Vitamin E Oil Acts as a natural preservative and nourishes skin. Use about 1 teaspoon per batch.
Cocoa Powder Want to reduce the white cast from zinc oxide? Adding cocoa powder helps tint the sunscreen to match your skin tone better. Start with 1/2 teaspoon and adjust.
What to Avoid
Citrus Essential Oils: Never add lemon, lime, grapefruit, or other citrus oils to sunscreen. They’re phototoxic, meaning they increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight—the exact opposite of what you want.
Nano-sized Zinc Oxide: The tiny particles can be absorbed into skin and don’t provide the same protective barrier.
The Basic Recipe: Your Starting Point
This recipe yields approximately 4-6 ounces of sunscreen with an estimated SPF of 25-30.
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup coconut oil
- 1/4 cup shea butter
- 2 tablespoons beeswax pellets
- 2 tablespoons non-nano zinc oxide powder (approximately 20% of total weight)
- 1 teaspoon red raspberry seed oil (optional)
- 20 drops carrot seed oil (optional)
- 1 teaspoon vitamin E oil (optional)
Equipment Needed
- Double boiler (or a glass jar placed in a pot of water)
- Glass stirring rod or wooden spoon
- Kitchen scale for precise measurements
- Glass storage jar (4-8 oz capacity)
- Dust mask or N95 mask
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Set Up Your Double Boiler Fill a medium pot with 2-3 inches of water and bring to a simmer. Place a heat-safe glass jar or bowl on top, ensuring it doesn’t touch the water.
Step 2: Melt the Base Ingredients Add coconut oil, shea butter, and beeswax to your double boiler and heat over medium-low heat until completely melted. Stir occasionally to ensure even melting. This usually takes 5-10 minutes.
Step 3: Remove from Heat and Cool Slightly Once everything is melted and combined, remove the jar from the heat. Let it cool for 2-3 minutes. You want it warm but not hot when you add the zinc oxide.
Step 4: Add Zinc Oxide (Carefully!) Here’s where you need to be cautious. Put on your dust mask before opening the zinc oxide container. Zinc oxide is famous for leaving a layer of white on the skin, and you don’t want to inhale the fine powder.
Slowly sprinkle the zinc oxide into your melted oils while stirring continuously. Keep stirring for a full 2-3 minutes to ensure the powder is evenly distributed throughout the mixture.
Step 5: Add Optional Ingredients Stir in your vitamin E oil, raspberry seed oil, and carrot seed oil if you’re using them. Mix thoroughly.
Step 6: Pour and Set Pour the mixture into your clean glass storage jar. Let it cool at room temperature, stirring occasionally as it begins to solidify. This helps prevent the zinc oxide from settling to the bottom.
Step 7: Final Set Continue whisking the ingredients every couple of minutes until the sunscreen starts to set up, then transfer to your final container. The sunscreen will continue to harden as it cools completely.
Advanced Recipes for Different Needs
Higher SPF Formula (Approximately SPF 40-50)
For those needing maximum protection:
Ingredients:
- 3/4 cup shea butter
- 1/4 cup coconut oil
- 2 tablespoons beeswax
- 3 tablespoons zinc oxide powder (approximately 25-30% by weight)
- 1 teaspoon raspberry seed oil
- 1 teaspoon vitamin E oil
Follow the same basic method, but expect a thicker, more paste-like consistency due to the higher zinc oxide content.
Lightweight Daily Formula (Approximately SPF 15-20)
For everyday use when you’re not spending extended time outdoors:
Ingredients:
- 1/2 cup coconut oil
- 2 tablespoons shea butter
- 1 tablespoon beeswax
- 1.5 tablespoons zinc oxide powder
- Optional: 15 drops lavender essential oil for scent
This formula absorbs more quickly and feels less heavy on the skin.
Waterproof Beach Formula
Beeswax is the secret ingredient in making homemade waterproof sunscreen, so this recipe amps it up:
Ingredients:
- 1/4 cup coconut oil
- 1/4 cup shea butter
- 3 tablespoons beeswax (increased amount)
- 2 tablespoons zinc oxide powder
- 1 tablespoon jojoba oil
- 1 teaspoon vitamin E oil
The extra beeswax creates a more water-resistant barrier, though you’ll still need to reapply after swimming.
Making It Look Good: Solving the White Cast Problem
Let’s address the elephant in the room: zinc oxide makes you look like a ghost. There are ways around this.
Tinting Your Sunscreen
You can tint homemade sunscreen by adding cocoa powder 1/2 teaspoon at a time until you reach the desired color. For lighter skin tones, start with just 1/4 teaspoon. For darker skin tones, you might need 1-2 teaspoons.
Add the cocoa powder at the same time as the zinc oxide, stirring thoroughly to ensure even distribution. Test a small amount on your skin before pouring the entire batch into containers.
The Whipped Method
Want a lighter, fluffier texture that blends better? Try this:
- Follow steps 1-4 of the basic recipe
- Place the mixture in the refrigerator until it’s solid but still somewhat soft (about 30-45 minutes)
- Use an electric mixer to whip the sunscreen until it’s light and fluffy
- Transfer to containers
The whipped version spreads more easily and leaves less of a white cast.
Application Tips: Making Your Sunscreen Work
Creating the sunscreen is only half the battle. You need to apply it correctly.
How Much to Use
Typical adults should use about a shot glass worth of sunscreen for unexposed areas. Most people use far too little, which dramatically reduces the effective SPF.
For just your face and neck, use about 1/2 teaspoon. For your entire body, you need roughly 2 tablespoons (30 grams).
Reapplication Is Key
Homemade sunscreens need more frequent reapplication than commercial products:
- Every 60-90 minutes during normal activity
- Every 40-60 minutes if you’re swimming or sweating
- Immediately after toweling off
This is probably the biggest drawback of DIY sunscreen compared to commercial water-resistant formulas.
The Absorption Issue
If your sunscreen absorbs before you’ve had a chance to rub it over the entire area, try adding 1-2 tablespoons of carrier oil to thin it slightly so you have extra time to spread it.
Warm the sunscreen between your hands before applying. This helps it spread more evenly and reduces the white cast.
Storage and Shelf Life
Proper storage extends the life of your homemade sunscreen and keeps it effective.
Storage Guidelines
Temperature: Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. A bathroom cabinet works well. If you live in a very hot climate, refrigeration is best.
Container: Use opaque glass jars or food-grade plastic containers. Dark-colored glass offers the best protection from light degradation.
Cleanliness: Always use clean, dry hands or a spatula to scoop out product. Water contamination will dramatically reduce shelf life.
How Long Does It Last?
This sunscreen will last for one year if water doesn’t get into it. However, if you notice any changes in smell, texture, or color, discard it immediately.
The vitamin E oil acts as a natural preservative, extending shelf life. Without it, plan on using your sunscreen within 6 months.
The Reality Check: What DIY Sunscreen Can and Can’t Do
Time for some straight talk about limitations.
What It Can Do
- Provide physical UV protection through zinc oxide
- Avoid potentially harmful chemical ingredients
- Save money compared to premium natural sunscreens
- Give you complete control over ingredients
- Moisturize your skin while protecting it
- Reduce environmental impact (no harmful chemicals washing into waterways)
What It Can’t Do
Unlike most sunscreens, natural and homemade sunscreens may not be as waterproof or have as high (or broad spectrum) SPF, and may not protect as fully against UVA and UVB rays.
Without lab testing, you can’t know the exact SPF of your product. The percentages given in recipes are estimates based on zinc oxide content, but factors like how evenly you’ve mixed the ingredients affect the actual protection level.
Homemade formulas don’t undergo the rigorous testing that commercial products do. You’re taking some responsibility (and risk) by using them.
Safety Considerations You Can’t Ignore
Making and using homemade sunscreen comes with responsibilities.
Handling Zinc Oxide Safely
Always wear a mask when working with zinc oxide powder. The fine particles can irritate your lungs if inhaled. Mix in a well-ventilated area and avoid creating dust clouds.
Don’t use zinc oxide near open flames—it’s not flammable itself, but the oils you’re mixing it with are.
Patch Testing
Before using any new sunscreen recipe, do a patch test:
- Apply a small amount to your inner forearm
- Wait 24 hours
- Check for any redness, itching, or irritation
- If you react, identify which ingredient caused the problem
Sun Safety Beyond Sunscreen
Sunscreen should not be the only way to avoid sunburn. Layer your protection:
- Seek shade between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. when UV rays are strongest
- Wear protective clothing, including long-sleeved shirts and wide-brimmed hats
- Use sunglasses that block 100% of UVA and UVB rays
- Build up sun tolerance gradually
- Pay attention to your body—if your skin starts feeling warm or looks pink, get out of the sun
Know Your Limitations
Don’t rely on homemade sunscreen for:
- All-day beach trips (reapply frequently and consider supplementing with commercial sunscreen)
- Mountain activities at high altitude (UV exposure is more intense)
- Your first few exposures of summer (use commercial sunscreen until your skin adapts)
- Children under 6 months (they shouldn’t be in direct sun at all)
Cost Breakdown: Is DIY Actually Cheaper?
Let’s talk money. One motivation for making your own sunscreen is saving cash, but does it actually work out?
Initial Investment
- Non-nano zinc oxide (8 oz): $12-20
- Coconut oil (16 oz): $8-15
- Shea butter (8 oz): $10-15
- Beeswax pellets (8 oz): $8-12
- Optional oils: $15-30
- Storage containers: $5-10
Total startup cost: $58-102
Per-Batch Cost
One basic recipe batch (4-6 oz) costs approximately:
- Coconut oil: $1.50
- Shea butter: $1.75
- Beeswax: $1.00
- Zinc oxide: $2.50
- Optional ingredients: $1.25
Total per batch: $6-8 for 4-6 ounces
Compare this to natural commercial sunscreens, which typically cost $15-30 for 3-4 ounces. After your initial investment, you’re looking at significant savings, especially if you make multiple batches throughout the year.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even experienced DIY-ers run into issues. Here’s how to fix them.
Problem: Sunscreen Is Too Hard
Solution: Remelt it in your double boiler and add 1-2 tablespoons of liquid oil (coconut, jojoba, or olive oil). Stir thoroughly and let it reset.
Problem: Sunscreen Is Too Soft/Greasy
Solution: Remelt and add more beeswax, starting with 1 teaspoon at a time. Alternatively, add more shea butter for a less waxy texture.
Problem: Zinc Oxide Settled to the Bottom
Solution: You didn’t stir enough as it cooled. Remelt everything, then stir every few minutes as it cools and solidifies to keep the zinc suspended.
Problem: Grainy Texture
Solution: Your butters overheated or cooled too quickly. Shea butter in particular can become grainy if temperature changes are too dramatic. Remelt slowly over low heat and allow to cool gradually at room temperature, stirring occasionally.
Problem: Sunscreen Separated
Solution: The emulsion broke, usually due to adding water or using wet utensils. This batch can’t be saved. Make a new one ensuring all equipment is completely dry.
The Environmental Angle: Choosing Reef-Safe Ingredients
If you care about ocean health, homemade sunscreen offers real advantages.
The only “reef safe” sunscreens are made with non-nano zinc and non-nano titanium. Chemical ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate have been banned in Hawaii, Key West, and the U.S. Virgin Islands because of their harmful effects on coral reefs.
Oxybenzone causes the activation of ordinarily dormant viruses that lead to the bleaching of corals, and nano (very small) zinc and titanium particles are also toxic to coral.
By using non-nano zinc oxide and natural carrier oils, your DIY sunscreen is automatically reef-safe. When you swim in the ocean, you’re not contributing to coral reef destruction.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use this sunscreen on my baby?
Babies under 6 months shouldn’t be in direct sunlight. For babies 6 months and older, mineral sunscreens are generally considered safer than chemical ones, but consult your pediatrician first. The basic recipe with just zinc oxide, coconut oil, and shea butter (no essential oils) would be the safest option.
Will this stain my clothes?
Zinc oxide can leave white marks on dark clothing, especially if you apply too much. The good news is these marks wash out easily, unlike some chemical sunscreens that permanently stain.
Can I add essential oils for scent?
Yes, but be selective. Avoid all citrus oils. Safe options include lavender, vanilla, and eucalyptus. Use no more than 20-30 drops per batch.
What’s the difference between nano and non-nano zinc oxide?
Non-nano zinc oxide has particles large enough to sit on top of the skin (over 100 nanometers), while nano-sized particles can be absorbed into the skin and don’t work as intended for sun protection. Always use non-nano.
Can I make sunscreen spray?
Not safely with these recipes. Zinc oxide should not be inhaled, making spray application dangerous. Stick with lotion or bar formats.
The Bottom Line: Should You Make Your Own?
Making natural sunscreen isn’t for everyone, and that’s okay.
You’re a good candidate for DIY sunscreen if:
- You have sensitive skin that reacts to commercial products
- You’re concerned about chemical ingredients in conventional sunscreens
- You care about environmental impact
- You’re willing to reapply frequently
- You understand the limitations and accept some uncertainty about exact SPF levels
- You’re not planning extreme sun exposure situations
Stick with commercial options if:
- You need guaranteed waterproof protection for extended swimming
- You’re heading to high-altitude locations
- You can’t commit to frequent reapplication
- You want the convenience and certainty of tested SPF levels
- You have very young children (under 2 years)
The truth is, the best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually use consistently. If making your own motivates you to be more diligent about sun protection, go for it. If the process feels overwhelming and you’d skip protection altogether, buy a good commercial mineral sunscreen instead.
Final Thoughts: Taking Control of Your Skin’s Health
Creating your own natural sunscreen represents more than just mixing some ingredients. It’s about taking an active role in what goes on your body and understanding the science behind sun protection.
Our bodies need some exposure to the sun to make vitamin D, a necessary building block for hormone function. The goal isn’t to avoid the sun completely—it’s to find a balanced approach that protects against harm while allowing for the benefits of moderate sun exposure.
Whether you choose to make your own sunscreen or buy commercial products, the most important thing is to protect your skin consistently and thoughtfully. Understand your options, know the limitations, and make informed choices for yourself and your family.
